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Category: Clutch
Custom Motorcycles » 1980 Ironhead Sportster Chopper
Clutch Rebuild

Clutch Rebuild

Posted by Justin on 10/5/2005
 Featured
Once I got it running and got a chance to spend a little time riding, I realized that the engine didn't seem to be fully pulling the wheels like it should so I'm tearing apart the clutch to replace the springs, friction plates, and steel plates. I found a good deal on Barnett Kevlar friction plates and Barnett steels at Jireh. I decided to use Barnett plates rather than generic oem in order to give this clutch every possible performance advantage, which it needs because the stroker engine presumably can generate a lot of torque. I'm also going to install a Tamer II while I'm in there, I've read that this helps smooth engagement, a big plus for a grabby old sportster clutch.
Removing the Plates
Removing the Plates
With the retaining ring gone they all slide out easily. You can even pull out the whole pack by grabbing the bolts and pulling outward.
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Side of the bike
Side of the bike
with the primary cover removed and clutch compression tool installed
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Clutch Compressor Tool
Clutch Compressor Tool
Just a 1/4" thick steel bar with nonthreaded holes drilled through it for the 1/4" and 3/8" threaded stock
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Compressor Front View
Compressor Front View
Total spent: around $5 at home depot. The real tool costs $80-100
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Starter Solenoid Gear
Starter Solenoid Gear
The gearshaft on the left is pushed forward by the solenoid to engage the starter motor to the outer ring on the clutch basket
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Clutch & Chain Tensioner
Clutch & Chain Tensioner
Another shot of the clutch prior to disassembly. The primary chain tensioner is the white plastic block at the lower left.
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Compression Tool Detail
Compression Tool Detail
Nothing was threaded or welded, it's all being held in place by the nuts
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Compressing the Clutch
Compressing the Clutch
Used a vicegrips to turn the threadstock and a wrench to hold the nut in place
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Bent Compression Bar
Bent Compression Bar
I might have overdone the compression but the bar started to bend. I didn't want the thing exploding in my face so back to the bench for reinforcemen...
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Problem Solved
Problem Solved
Drilled a new bar to stack on the old one. Could have gotten more strength by bolting or welding them together but they held long enough to get it apart
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Bent but working
Bent but working
Both bars bent a little, probably because I overtightened the center "bolt"
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Ready to come apart
Ready to come apart
Removed the 6 locknuts.. ready to release the pressure
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Opening the Clutch
Opening the Clutch
As the plate moves out the clutch springs are visible inside
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Disc & Springs Removed
Disc & Springs Removed
The pressure is off, it's cake from here on out. I did notice that the bearing on the release disc feels kind of rough but it doesn't seem critical enough to warrant replacing
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Clutch Innards
Clutch Innards
Just need to remove the retaining ring and pull out the plates
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Retaining Ring Removed
Retaining Ring Removed
The ring came out easily with a flathead screwdriver
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Clutch Pack
Clutch Pack
Here they are all stacked with the backing plate
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Splines Detail
Splines Detail
This is what I was hoping not to find - the clutch basket and inner hub are somewhat grooved from wear - hopefully I can get by without replacing them
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Inner Hub Splines
Inner Hub Splines
They look slightly worse than the outer basket splines but not awful. This hub is a $100 part and the outer drum is $240.
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Inner Hub Splines
Inner Hub Splines
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Outer Hub Splines
Outer Hub Splines
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Stud Plate & Spacers
Stud Plate & Spacers
Looks to be in good enough condition, should get new spacers with the friction plate kit
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Friction Plates
Friction Plates
Not sure but going to guess these are oem.
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Steel Driven Plate
Steel Driven Plate
The old steels would probably have worked fine but they are definitely worn and their rough edges suggest they are oem quality so the Barnett plates will be a big improvement.
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Friction Plate Closeup
Friction Plate Closeup
I don't have the new ones yet to compare but these definitely look old and worn and feel smooth on the surface.
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