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Clutch Rebuild

  « 1980 Ironhead Sportster Chopper

(Clutch)

Clutch Rebuild Once I got it running and got a chance to spend a little time riding, I realized that the engine didn't seem to be fully pulling the wheels like it should so I'm tearing apart the clutch to replace the springs, friction plates, and steel plates. I found a good deal on Barnett Kevlar friction plates and Barnett steels at Jireh. I decided to use Barnett plates rather than generic oem in order to give this clutch every possible performance advantage, which it needs because the stroker engine presumably can generate a lot of torque. I'm also going to install a Tamer II while I'm in there, I've read that this helps smooth engagement, a big plus for a grabby old sportster clutch.


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Side of the bike
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with the primary cover removed and clutch compression tool installed

Clutch Compressor Tool
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Just a 1/4" thick steel bar with nonthreaded holes drilled through it for the 1/4" and 3/8" threaded stock

Compressor Front View
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Total spent: around $5 at home depot. The real tool costs $80-100

Starter Solenoid Gear
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The gearshaft on the left is pushed forward by the solenoid to engage the starter motor to the outer ring on the clutch basket

Clutch & Chain Tensioner
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Another shot of the clutch prior to disassembly. The primary chain tensioner is the white plastic block at the lower left.

Compression Tool Detail
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Nothing was threaded or welded, it's all being held in place by the nuts

Compressing the Clutch
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Used a vicegrips to turn the threadstock and a wrench to hold the nut in place

Bent Compression Bar
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I might have overdone the compression but the bar started to bend. I didn't want the thing exploding in my face so back to the bench for reinforcemen...

Problem Solved
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Drilled a new bar to stack on the old one. Could have gotten more strength by bolting or welding them together but they held long enough to get it apart

Bent but working
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Both bars bent a little, probably because I overtightened the center "bolt"

Ready to come apart
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Removed the 6 locknuts.. ready to release the pressure

Opening the Clutch
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As the plate moves out the clutch springs are visible inside

Disc & Springs Removed
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The pressure is off, it's cake from here on out. I did notice that the bearing on the release disc feels kind of rough but it doesn't seem critical enough to warrant replacing

Clutch Innards
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Just need to remove the retaining ring and pull out the plates

Retaining Ring Removed
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The ring came out easily with a flathead screwdriver

Removing the Plates
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With the retaining ring gone they all slide out easily. You can even pull out the whole pack by grabbing the bolts and pulling outward.

 
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Clutch Pack
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Here they are all stacked with the backing plate

Splines Detail
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This is what I was hoping not to find - the clutch basket and inner hub are somewhat grooved from wear - hopefully I can get by without replacing them

Inner Hub Splines
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They look slightly worse than the outer basket splines but not awful. This hub is a $100 part and the outer drum is $240.

Inner Hub Splines
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Outer Hub Splines
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Stud Plate & Spacers
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Looks to be in good enough condition, should get new spacers with the friction plate kit

Friction Plates
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Not sure but going to guess these are oem.

Steel Driven Plate
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The old steels would probably have worked fine but they are definitely worn and their rough edges suggest they are oem quality so the Barnett plates will be a big improvement.

Friction Plate Closeup
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I don't have the new ones yet to compare but these definitely look old and worn and feel smooth on the surface.

 
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